Sport Cars

Your car goes off a highway down a ravine, out of sight of traffic. Your cell phone works and you call 9-1-1.


But...GPS only narrows your call down to the nearest cell tower and the Highway Patrol cant see the wreckage from the road.

Betcha think theyll launch a chopper, given the terrain and whats at stake.

But watch this video and youll hear the Arizona Department of Public Safety say they cant and wont do that.

And so the man on the phone and his young son died waiting for help to arrive....their bodies found when it became a "missing persons" case two days later and the helicopter finally went up.

Story from ABC15 (KNXV-TV, Phoenix...my day job).

1998-2002 Vehicles
1. Turn the ignition to the On position but do not start the vehicle.
2. Press the FSS button twice within four seconds. The button may have a 1 or a 0 imprinted on or near it. This will show the days or mileage remaining until the next service is due.
3. Turn the ignition key to the Lock position within 10 seconds. This is one position back from the On position.
4. Depress and hold the FSS button while turning the ignition to the On position. Do not start the vehicle. This will show the days or mileage remaining until service is due again. Continue to hold the button for 10 seconds until you hear a tone. The display will indicate 10,000 miles and 365 days to next service.
5. Release the FSS button and turn the ignition to the Lock position. The reset procedure is now complete.
2003-2007 Vehicles
6. Turn the ignition to the On position but do not start the vehicle.
7. Press the FSS button for about three seconds. The display will read: DO YOU WANT TO RESET THE SERVICE INTERVAL? CONFIRM BY PRESSING R, or it will read, SERVICE INTERVAL? RESET WITH BUTTON.
8. Press and hold the FSS reset button until a tone sounds. The FSS will now display the reset interval.
9. Release the FSS button then turn the ignition off. The reset procedure is now complete.

1. Decide on the style of BMW you would like. They offer sedans, SUVs, sports wagons and coupes. If you arent familiar with all the options BMW has to offer, visit their website to check out all the models available and the features they include.
2. Make a list of the features and options that are the most important to you. If you have a lot of custom features you would like to have, consider custom-ordering your BMW and having it delivered to a dealer near you. This option is available both on the website and at a BMW dealer.
3. Choose the top three models you are interested in and do more research. The BMW 650 series is rated negatively as having a rough ride, jerky transmission and throttle problems. The BMW X5 is rated as one of the most luxurious SUVs and has a V8 under the hood that is popular with many car owners. These are important things to know about each of the models.
4. Consider the warranties offered by BMW. The manufacturer offers a 12-year warranty for the bodywork, three years for the paint and an entire automobile warranty that covers original BMW parts and accessories for 2 years regardless of mileage, but not including replacement of worn parts.

Three Ways to Raise the Front End of an A4
1. Set the emergency brake. Jack up the front of the right or left side of the A4 with an emergency jack. Position the jack about six inches behind the front wheel well. There may be notches indicating where to place it. Slide a jack stand next to the emergency jack and lower the emergency jack to rest the cars side on the jack stand.Repeat this procedure for the other side so the right and left sides of the car are level with each other. Block off both sides of the rear tire diagonal to the front wheel youre raising. Use bricks, rocks or chocks.
2. Drive the A4s front wheels onto a couple of drive-on ramps, as a second car-raising alternative. Put rubber mats under the ramps in advance, to prevent skidding. If youll be working on an incline, position the ramps downhill; otherwise, the car might not get up the ramps. Set the emergency brake after getting the car up the ramps.
3. Use two jackscrews as a third option. Position them the same place an emergency jack would go. Jackscrews combine the function of an emergency jack with the stability of jack stands--at a price that may not be worth it to you.
Changing the Oil
4. Idle the engine in neutral until the radiator fan goes on. This thins the oil so it drains more completely. Turn off the engine. Let the oil settle into the drain pan for five minutes.
5. Unscrew the engine oil-filler cap, but dont take it off yet. The point is just to let in air so the oil will drain. The engine oil refill cap is on the right of the engine, if youre facing the hood.
6. Slide yourself under the engine. Find the oil drain bolt. It should the lowest lone bolt on the engine. To tell it apart from the transmission fluid drain plug, metal around the former will still be hot from running the engine.
7. Loosen the drain plug counter-clockwise using a crescent wrench. If it refuses to budge, use a closed-end wrench to grip it better. Put a drain pan under the drain plug before unscrewing it manually. Work on the oil filter as the oil drains. The filter should be changed when the oil is changed.
8. Locate the oil filter. It is attached to the engine on the underside. Fit the oil filter wrench on the oil filter. Turn it counter-clockwise, preferably with a socket wrench fitting in the center hole. Once loosened, you can just screw it off by hand. But dont put your face under it, since its full of used oil, which can be hot and carcinogenic.
9. Screw in the drain plug after the oil has drained for an hour. In case you use a torque wrench, tighten the bolt to 29 foot-pounds. Edmunds suggest that you replace the washer each oil change, since drain plug washers are compressible and therefore wear fast.
10. Pull the O-ring seal out of the oil filter cavity in the engine. Clean any O-ring residue left on the engine with a rag. Coat the new seal on both side with clean oil, hold it in place, and screw the new filter onto the engine. Keep screwing until you feel some resistance. Continue an additional 2/3 turns using the oil filter wrench. Dont overtighten, which can cause an oil leak.
11. Pour motor oil in the refill cap opening on the right side of the engine. Pour in the following amounts for the different A4 models:
4.6L for A4 1.8
5.0L for A4 2.0
6.2L for A4 3.2
6.9L for A4 2.7 and 3.0 (p. 323)
For the LongLife Service plan, Audi recommends VW 503 00 or VW 504 00 for its gasoline engines. For Inspection Service, Audi recommends VW 502 00, VW 503 00 or VW 504 00 oil for its gasoline engines. If your engine has a diesel particulate filter, use only VW 507 00. Check the dipstick to make sure you dont overfill. Its orange. Its located on the right side of the engine, a few inches in the front of the engine oil refill cap (if the grill is in the front direction). Screw the filler cap back on.
12. Start the engine again. Idle it in neutral until the radiator fan comes on. Inspect the drain plug and oil filter for leaks. Lower the car off any supports.
13. Reset the service interval display by pressing the Car button, then Service interval display, and then Reset oil change interval.

1. Put the key into the ignition and turn the vehicle to the on position but dont start the engine.
2. Find the diagnostic port under the drivers side dashboard near the pedals. Plug the computerized scan tool into this port. The battery from the vehicle will automatically power on the tool.
3. Find arrows on the faceplate of the scan tool and use them to scroll through the menu until you find the Read All Codes command. Select this command.
4. Scroll through the menu again and find Clear All Codes. Select this option then wait for the service engine light to shut off.
5. Turn off the vehicle and wait five minutes. Start the engine and verify that the check engine light is still off.

1. Pop the hood and locate the coil pack on the drivers side of the engine. This is a small black box with all of the spark plug wires leading into it.
2. Label each spark plug wire using the permanent marker and the masking tape. To do this, pair up each plug wire with each post on the coil pack, and label each pair with the same number. For example, the plug wire plugged into the top right post would be labeled "1," and the post would have a "1" label on it as well. Its not important which cylinder these plug wires actually control, just their location on the coil pack for re-installation. Repeat this process for every plug wire on the coil pack.
3. Pull off all of the spark plug wires using your hands by gripping at the base of the spark plug wire and tugging backward. Unclip the wiring harness leading into the coil pack by pushing on the tab in the middle using your thumb. Then use the 3/8-inch ratchet, extension and sockets to unbolt the coil pack from the motor.

1. Close all of the doors, the trunk and the hood.
2. Place the key in the ignition and turn it to position one, Accessory. Turn it back to Off. Do this four more times and remove the key from the ignition when you are done.
3. Press and hold the unlock button and then press and release the lock button three times. Release the unlock button. If the locks cycle, then you have done this correctly. Repeat this step for each key you wish to program.
4. Inset the key in the ignition and turn it to Accessory to exit programming mode.

The CX-9 review soft style does not separate the crowds like brothers and sisters smaller Mazda3. It is a common traditional style throughout, even though many details of silver trim and black plastic sheeting kept low to maintain a modern look to stabilize based on the city with a touch of classic SUV toughness.

1. Turn on the vehicle. Allow the vehicle to run for four to five minutes. Turn off the vehicle.
2. Open the vehicle hood. Insert the hood prop.
3. Remove the dipstick from the dipstick tube. Wipe oil from the dipstick with a rag.
4. Pinch the valve -- located on the line of a manual oil extractor -- between your thumb and index finger. Pump the extractor handle fifty times to build pressure in the extractor canister.
5. Slide the end of the extractor hose into the dipstick tube until you feel the hose hit the bottom of the oil pan. Push on the pinch valve to pull oil from the oil pan. Stop the flow of oil by pinching the valve closed.
6. Pull the extractor hose from the dipstick tube. Wipe oil from the hose with a rag. Open the pinch valve when the extractor is clear of the dipstick tube.
7. Insert the dipstick into the dipstick tube. Pull the dipstick out of the tube to check the engine oil level. Remove additional oil if the level remains high.

1. Read your lease agreement. Look for a buyout provision as well as early termination clause. Early termination clauses are generally reserved for people quitting a lease, but some may have a buyout stipulation.
2. Determine the capitalized cost. This is the difference between the total amount of paid lease installments and the purchase price of the car. For instance, if the purchase price is $40,000 and you have paid 50 installments of $667 on a five-year lease term, the balance or capitalized cost would be $6,650.
3. Include applicable registration and licensing fees. Phone the nearest DMV office and get the costs of any title transfer fees and registration fees. Also calculate sales tax based on your states sale tax rate.
4. Add the capitalized cost, registration and licensing fees with the sales tax. This will yield your lease release payment or buyout cost.

1. Use a floor jack to lift the front of the BMW. Remove the splash guard under the engine. This is held on with screws and plastic plugs that are removed by hand. Turn on the ignition, set the heater to 91 degrees and set the fan to the low speed. This will get the coolant out of the heater core.
2. Locate the radiator fill cap in the engine bay and loosen the bleeder screw with a screwdriver. Make sure you let the car cool down enough if it has been driven recently.
3. Locate and remove the two blue radiator screws located directly beneath where the radiator fill cap is located. Place a container under the drain plugs and drain them one at a time. Reinstall the radiator drain screws. Remove the 13-millimeter engine block drain plug, located on the passenger’s side of the engine block near the front axle, and drain the coolant into the container. Place a new washer on the drain bolt and put it back in the block, tightening it to 18 ft/lbs with a torque wrench.
4. Remove the intake ducting by carefully prying up the three plastic rivets that hold it to the top of the radiator. Remove the neck of the air box by pressing the two vertical sides of the ducting together and pulling it off.
5. Remove the wires that go to the radiator fan and the T25 Torx screw that holds the fan on. Remove the plastic rivet on the driver’s side with a screwdriver. Remove the fan by pulling it straight up and out.
6. Remove the wire that goes to the thermostat. Use a 13-millimeter socket to remove the bolt on the upper right part of the thermostat. Use a 10-millimeter socket to remove the three bolts on the top and bottom of the thermostat.
7. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses from the engine block. Remove the thermostat. Clean the surface where the thermostat gasket is installed so there is no gasket material remaining.
8. Install the new thermostat with the 13-millimeter bolt and the three 10-millimeter bolts. Use a new gasket when you reinstall the thermostat. Tighten the bolts to 7 lb/ft. Reinstall the radiator hoses. Reinstall the fan and the intake ducting. Top up the system with coolant.

1. Warm up the heat gun by turning it on and letting it stand for a few minutes.
2. Run it back and forth over the trim but not touching it. Just enough to soften up the adhesive backing.
3. Set a cloth under the beginning part of the trim and slide the trim removal tool along the cloth and up under the trim to pry it up.
4. Work the removal tool and the cloth along the entire length of each piece of trim to pry it off the vehicle. Do this carefully if you wish to reuse the trim because it can crack or chip easily.
5. Pull the trim gently away from the vehicle door and set it aside.

1. Turn off the headlights and the engine. Youll be reaching into the engine compartment to change the bulb so let the engine cool off before you proceed.
2. Open the hood.
3. Reach behind the headlight for the bulb you need change. Remove the black cover cap over the bulb you need to replace. Rotate it to the left and pull it off.
4. Rotate the bulb holder and pull it out.
5. Pull the used bulb out of the holder.
6. Push the new bulb into the holder.
7. Reinsert the bulb holder into the assembly. Rotate it to the right to secure it.
8. Replace the black cover cap and rotate it to the right.

1. Insert the key in the ignition, but do not turn on the vehicle.
2. Press and hold the odometer reset button, located on the instrument panel.
3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Continue to hold down the odometer button until it reads RESET. Release the reset button.
4. Press and hold down the odometer reset button until RESET blinks. Release the odometer reset button.
5. Press and hold down the odometer reset button until RESET is replaced with END SIA. Release the odometer reset button.

1. Go to Navigation.com, and use the menus on the left to select Built-in, Factory Installed, then Audi and A8/A8L/S8. Select your cars year, and the current update is shown.
2. Click Add to Cart and Checkout. Enter your payment and shipping information so the update may be mailed to you. The update is sent on a DVD.
3. Insert the new DVD into the navigation system and wait for the update screen to appear. Enter the authorization code provided on the DVD case, if prompted to do so. Wait for the update process to complete, then eject the DVD from the system. The new maps are now ready to use.

1. Sweep the interior of the vehicle and clean all trash and dirt from the inside. Nothing needs to removed or demolished since it is a cargo van with an empty interior. Line the interior walls, ceiling and floor with loft insulation. The insulation can be cut with a razor blade to fit into the deep wall pockets. Cover the insulation with 1/4-inch plywood. Use sheet metal screws to attach the plywood to the van by drilling the screws into the long structural braces that already exist in the van. Pre-cut holes in the plywood to match the existing interior lights.
2. Cover the floor of the van with carpet. Use carpet glue to secure the material to the floor and a combination of carpet glue and carpet nails for the walls and ceiling. Only use the nails around the exterior line of the carpet. You can use wood for the floor but carpet adds insulation value for cold weather camping.
3. Frame a bed for the back of the van using 2-by-3 boards. Build a rectangular base and four uprights for each long side. Use two uprights for the short sides. Frame the top of the bed to match the bottom. Cover the sides of the bed with 1/4-inch plywood and 1-inch wood screws. Attach a hinge to the top of the bed frame and attach 1/4-inch plywood to the hinge. This will allow access to the storage area beneath the bed. Connect the bed to the floor with metal brackets and one inch wood screws. Make the width of the bed equal to the width of the back of the van and adjust the length to support one or two people. Cover the bed with foam padding for comfort.
4. Build a bench seat on one side of the van. Make the bench seat 3-feet wide and 4-feet tall. The length can be all the way to the front seats or only a couple of feet depending on the number of people that will be in the van at one time. Build the bench by constructing a rectangular frame out of 2-by-3 boards. Cover the bench with 1/4-inch plywood and use a hinge on the top for access to the storage inside of the bench. Secure the bench to the floor of the van with a metal bracket. Cover the bench with foam padding. Staple the corners of the foam directly to the bench, with a staple gun.
5. Build a counter top on the opposite side of the bench. This will leave a walking isle between the bench and the counter. Use 2-by-4 boards for the legs and 1/4-inch plywood for the top. Cover the plywood with a marine grade paint to prevent water damage. Secure each leg of the counter to the floor of the van using metal brackets. Place plastic storage containers beneath the counter for kitchen and camping supplies.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. The BMW 325 battery is located in the trunk. Let the vehicle cool off for at least 30 minutes prior to beginning procedure.
2. Remove the two screws mounting the air box assembly on the right side of the engine bay. Removing the air box assembly will allow you easier access to the heater control valve. Remove the clamps connecting the air intake hose and set the box and hose aside
3. Disconnect the electrical module from the base of the valve. Use the flat-head screwdriver to remove the clamps holding the upper and lower valve hose. Make note of their position; the upper and lower hoses cannot be swapped during installation. Clamp off the hoses to minimize leakage and prevent contaminants from entering the system.
4. Use the torx screwdriver to remove the three screws mounting the heater control valve, and then remove the valve.
5. Place the new valve in its spot and attach the screws to mount it. Remove the clamps and reconnect the upper and lower hose to the proper location on the valve. Replace the electrical connection to the valve and reinstall the air box assembly.

1. Look behind the headlight. Feel around this areas to find the gripping mechanism. These are located on either side of the headlight housing.
2. Twist the gripping mechanisms counterclockwise and pull the socket out.
3. Line up the pins on your new Xenon light with the holes in the socket and insert the light into the socket.
4. Replace the socket back into the housing. Twist the gripping mechanisms clockwise to lock them back into place.

1. Pop the hood. Locate the belt-routing diagram, which is a sticker on the core support. Locate the belt tensioner, which is in the middle of the engine, just above the crankshaft pulley.
2. Place the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket on the hex-head bolt in the middle of the tensioner and turn it counterclockwise to release the tension on the belt. While still holding the ratchet, pull the belt off the pulleys.
3. Run the replacement belt around the pulleys on the engine, using the sticker you found in Step 1 as a guideline. Then pull the tensioner counterclockwise with the ratchet again, and run the belt around the tensioner. Release the ratchet and verify that the belt is straight and even on each pulley.